(Main route mentioned: https://www.strava.com/routes/2757121735693800906)
The Victorian side of the Snowy Mountains tends to get the most coverage when it comes to cycling in the high country; towns like Bright, Beechworth and Mansfield, and climbs like Falls Creek, Tawonga Gap and Mt Hotham, are synonymous with hard, elevation-heavy road riding. But there’s also plenty of gold to be found back across the border in NSW, particularly starting from the picturesque ski town of Jindabyne.
Set on the shores of Lake Jindabyne, one of the largest freshwater reservoirs in NSW, ‘Jindy’ is the perfect base for a variety of great rides, both on-road and off. The town hosts a wide range of accommodation and dining options, stretching from European-style ski lodges to caravan parks, mid-range restaurants to pub bistros, making it the perfect base for exploring the area.
If you’re game for a particularly big day out in the saddle, then you’ve got a few options. One would be to trace the former route of L'Étape Australia, a pretty brutal, 130 kilometre loop that includes the infamous Col de Beloka (3km at 9.4%), which has seen many a rider get off and walk, and includes a certain Chris Froome at sixth place on the Strava leaderboard. With the ride finishing at Charlotte’s Pass — pretty close to the roof of Australia at 1765 metres — rest assured you’re in for a big day of climbing.
Our ride recommendation (152km, 3300m) is arguably a little tougher, and we’d argue, a little more scenic — taking in the delightful vistas of the Thredbo Valley, and also finishing at the top of Charlotte’s Pass, one of Australia’s highest paved roads.
Starting in Jindabyne (suitably caffeinated, we suggest), roll out of town on Kosciuszko Rd, and take a left at Alpine Way. The climbing begins immediately; after a tough few kays, you’ll enjoy a flowy descent into the valley, passing the Wildbrumby Distillery as you go (stop off for some schnapps, if you’re game!).
After a few lovely rolling kays and a little pinch of a climb, with the road markings changing from white to yellow an indication of your ascent above the winter snowline, the road drops into the beautiful Thredbo Valley, with an excellent view of the main range. Enjoy the lovely hotmix surface for the next 20 kilometres as the road gently climbs, eventually rising above the ski resort of Thredbo, and continue until you reach the sign that marks the top of the ominously named Dead Horse Gap. Only continue past here if you’re game, be warned that the climb back out from Tom Groggin campground (18km at 6%) is one of the hardest in the country, and we recommend it for another day!
At the top of Dead Horse, turn around and go back the way you came, and enjoy the slowly descending road which had probably been quite hard work a few moments before. Once you’re back at Lake Jindabyne and the intersection of Alpine Way and Kosciuszko Rd, take a left, and start the climb to Perisher Valley and Charlotte’s Pass. We reckon this is one of the best climbs in Australia; it might not be as brutal as some of its Victorian neighbours, but once you emerge out of the treeline, the alpine terrain is hard to beat. Keep riding past the ski lifts at Perisher Valley onwards to Charlotte’s Pass, and suck in the fresh mountain air. When you reach Charlotte’s Pass, the only thing left to do is refill your bidons, turn around, and enjoy the downhill pedal back to Jindy. Finish up at the Jindabyne Brewery for a few locally-brewed beers, and you’ve got yourself the perfect day out. Brilliant.