The Southern Tablelands, stretching from the Highlands towns of Bowral and Mittagong, through Marulan and Goulburn and onwards towards Canberra, is an area of big skies, rugged gravel roads, and — despite the general area being pretty flat — some surprisingly difficult, mostly unsealed climbs. If you’re the kind of rider who isn’t afraid of some big days, then it’s also a great area for bikepacking, and is ideally located for a weekend trip from Sydney.
Two-day loop
There’s plenty of ride options in the area — depending on how far you want to go, and whether you want to stay mostly on the tarmac or get down and dirty — but if you’ve got two days, we’d suggest something like this.
Highlights of this loop, which stretches from Bowral to Taralga and back again, include the stunning area around Wombeyan Caves, some charming country pubs, and the rugged and sometimes gnarly Swallow Tail Pass. You’ll need a proper gravel bike with some decent-sized tyres (maybe 36mm and up), and if it’s summertime, a fair amount of water too, which you’ll need to carry in addition to the rest of your gear and overnight clothes — it can get pretty hot out there.
We suggest tackling the loop in an anti-clockwise direction, kicking off proceedings in either Bowral or Mittagong and taking Wombeyan Caves Road out west. The loop starts on tarmac, but after about 20 kays, the gravel starts and stays that way for much of the day. Descend through a historic sandstone tunnel, push on through lush farmland, and stop to take in the epic view over the Wollondilly River before dropping down a sometimes loose descent to the valley floor. The climb out the other side is great, rising nearly 500 metres over more than 11 kilometres, at an average gradient of 4.2 percent.
After descending the other side, stop in at the jaw-dropping Wombeyan Caves for a peek at some stalactites, then refill your bottles for the sealed climb up into the Mares Forest National Park, where the road turns to gravel again and tends to be pretty corrugated. Gravel sectors conquered for the day, the charming Taralga Hotel now isn’t too far off, where you should stop in for a classic pub meal and refreshments. The pub also offers basic lodgings for the night, but there are other options in town if you want to splash some cash.
On day two, roll out of town on the sealed road to Bannaby, before dropping down the aforementioned Swallow Tail Pass. Be careful on this descent, especially after rain, as it can get pretty rutted and washed out; if it’s been raining, you might also get your feet wet in the weir at the bottom. The climb out is tough, but it’s worth it for the hilltops section that follows, which has a certain vibe reminiscent of the famous ‘Strade Bianche’ around Tuscany. Passing Big Hill, the gravel starts again at Canyonleigh Road; it’s worth stopping off for a dip once you get to Paddy’s River if the water levels are high. From here, press on to the Sutton Forest Inn for a cold drink, and decide if you want to take the sealed Old Hume Hwy back to Bowral, or head back via the farm roads on the other side of the freeway.
One-day loops
If you’ve only got a day to spare, then your best bet is to drive to either Goulburn or Taralga and devise a route from there. Good options for the former include an anti-clockwise loop taking in Carrick Road, Big Hill, Swallow Tail Pass, and a stop for lunch in Taralga, before pressing on via Rhyanna Road back to Goulburn; such a loop should work out at roughly 120km, and is appropriate for proper gravel bikes with tyres 38mm and up. In Goulburn, check out either Grit Cafe or Greengrocer Cycling for your pre and post-ride necessities.
For the latter, start in Taralga and take in the mixed surfaces that stretch northwest on Golspie Road, before joining the sealed Peelwood Road which will take you through Laggan and Crookwell — both with good stop-offs for lunch or morning tea. After Crookwell, take the scenic route through Roslyn and skirt the edge of Willigam Hill, before joining Laggan-Taralga Road to take you back to the car. A loop like this should be around 90-100km, and should be manageable on road bikes with tyres larger than 25mm.
Whether you’ve got two days or one — or even more than that — the Southern Tablelands are ripe for gravel exploration, and we’ve only really just scratched the surface. So why not get out there yourself?